TimeOut London Eating & Drinking 2010

TimeOut London Eating and Drinking 2010 (100% independent – Reviewers visit anonymously) Established 1980 Patara is a chain in the same way that Haveys Nichol is a chain. It is a reliable purveyor of top quality fare. Outposts are popping up in smart capitals around the world. The sleek wood-lined, anonymous restaurant could be anywhere; it s all subtle lighting, perfect service and pretty table setting. In contrast, the food is creative and distinctive (as well as being expertly presented), with exotic meats a highlight; unusually for a Thai venue, knives are provided to tackle such meats. An amuse bouche of watermelon squares with a pile of sugared fish flakes was minimalist yet bold, nicely awakening the palate. Elegant starters like Thai green aubergines stuffed with warm crab (accented with liquorice-scented Thai basil and dotted with sharp minced shallots and fish roe) epitomise the balance and restraint shown by the kitchen. Slow braised beef in coconut reduction was exquisite; the flavourful meat melted in the mouth and was perfectly matched the sweet coconut. Rather than traditional kaffir lime leaves, line peal was diced and scattered on top, lending a modern boldness. Patara does a brisk trade in costing under 15 for two courses. A treat.