Lunch served noon-2.30pm Mon-Sat. Dinner served 6.30-10.30pm daily. Main courses £12.95-£15.50. Set launch £11.95 2 courses, £14.95 3 courses. Set dinner (6.30-7.30pm) £13.95 2 courses. Service 12.5%. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

This is the forth London branch of upmarket Patara, a Thai-based international chain. This Soho flagship takes its design from traditional Thai royal pavilions, with elaborately carved palm-wood columns, chiselled sandstone lining the walls, sumptuous red seating, and spotlights on white linen; it looks stunning,


The centrepiece is the huge model of a teak palace, finished with gold leaf and lit from above. The menu is refleshingly like ‘real’ Thai food, but with plenty of innovation, such as black cod with yellow bean sauce, crab meat and grilled aubergine salad, or curried sea bass grilled in coconut leaves. Flavours are strong but well balanced, just as they should be.


The chilli-heat of a salad of shredded chicken and julienned mango was an assault on the palate, but sour lime juice, salty fish sauce and notes of sweet and bitter also vied for attention. Fresh mint and fried garlic added to the taste explosion.


Even basics such as fish cakes and rice were perfectly tendered, and a vividly orange curry of duck with diced pineapple wasn’t as sickly sweet as it might sound. The set menus are particularly good value, considering the quality of the cooking.