The self-assured cooking speaks for itself. A tangy salad of green mango featured crisp, juicy shreds of fruit enlivened with chilli and lime. Steamed dumplings in assorted colours, from lilac to pale golden were stuffed with prawn, chicken and pork with some filling working better than others.

Grilled black cod with ginger and pickled yellow bean sauce was a scrumptious version of an old classic. Pineapple and tofu red curry had an intriguing mix of hot, sour, spicy and fruity flavours.

More tofu featured in a delightfully piquant stir-fry with green beans, chillies and lime leaves. Puddings, such as banana tar and coconut custard pancakes, are rich and generously portioned.

Overall we found the cooking a touch too sweet, but soothing, earthy-hued interior smiling staff and a buzzy crowd contributes to a highly enjoyable dining experience.