The place is pure class from the chill-out music through jungle-reference grassy plants to graceful serving staff dressed in earthy-toned Armani-does-Thailand silk. An intelligent menu combines inspired contemporary offerings with classics you’d miss if they weren’t there.

Many diners start with ornate and beautifully made pork and chicken dumplings some of which were coloured a fetching (and traditional) pale purple. Also worth seeking is a refined, subtle black cod broth with ginger, and a sensational zingy tuna tartare spiked with limejuice, fish sauce and lemongrass.

Pad prig khing (a sweet and spicy mix sugar snap peas and prawns in a kaffir lime-strewn sauce) has real gravitas while wok fried egg noodles with soft shell crab tempura and feisty black pepper sauce has a reassuringly down-home quality.

Desserts are equally sophisticated, especially the creamy coconut flesh and fresh fruit. As a total Thai experience, this stands out as one of the best.