There are branches of this Thai restaurant dotted all over the world, including Bangkok, Singapore, and a few addresses in London (see below). The Soho branch is a smart and striking venue, with good use of ambient lighting, including candles along the black wall, and Thai figurines inlaid with glass mosaic tiles. The whole effect is contemporary, not cliché.

The kitchen displays a high level of ambition. Tom Yum goong is a fine version of this classic soup, with tender prawns and a 'delicious, spicy broth'. Angus breef - pink in the middle comes with a green curry sauce, and mango salad is topped with two deep-fried soft shell crabs. Pad Thai noodles are another hit, although desserts have impressed less.

Service has been 'superb', and wine start at £13.50. There are other branches in South Kensington, Knightsbridge and Oxford Circus.